Ben Gurion Airport — what to expect.
Ben Gurion International (TLV) is a modern, well-organized airport. Terminal 3 handles all international arrivals. From the jetway you'll ride a train to the terminal building, then follow signs to passport control — expect a 20–45 minute queue during peak hours (Motzei Shabbos and Sunday mornings are the busiest; Tuesday arrivals are typically fast).
ETA-IL is now mandatory. Since January 1, 2025, most visa-exempt nationals — US, UK, EU, Canadian, Australian — must hold a valid ETA-IL (Electronic Travel Authorization for Israel) before boarding. Cost: approximately $14 USD per person, including children. Apply at eta.piba.gov.il — approval is usually instant but allow 72 hours. Airlines check at check-in; no ETA-IL means no boarding.
At passport control, border officers routinely ask the purpose of your visit. "Family trip / tourism" is the correct answer. You may be asked which hotel you're staying at — know the name. Israeli border control is thorough but not adversarial; answer directly and calmly.
After passport control: baggage claim, then customs (green channel for nothing to declare; red if you're carrying significant amounts of cash over 50,000 NIS (approximately $13,000 USD) or commercial goods). The arrivals hall is immediately beyond — this is where your transport options begin.
Getting to Jerusalem — your four options.
Nesher sherut (shared van) — best for families
The Nesher sherut is the single best option for a frum family. It's a shared minibus (7–10 passengers) that runs 24 hours directly between Ben Gurion arrivals and any Jerusalem address — no fixed schedule, it departs when full or after a short wait. Cost: approximately 80–90 NIS per person (roughly $22–25 USD). A family of four pays 320–360 NIS total, arrives door-to-door, and doesn't fight for a taxi at midnight.
Find the Nesher desk immediately on entering the arrivals hall — it's a counter with a yellow sign, staffed around the clock. Pay in NIS or by credit card. Give your hotel address precisely; drivers know Jerusalem well. On Shabbos and Yom Tov the sherut does not operate — plan accordingly.
Important: on peak nights (Motzei Shabbos, post-Yom Tov, Jewish holidays) the sherut queue can be 45 minutes. If you're traveling with very young children or elderly parents, the private taxi below may be worth the premium.
Private taxi — fastest, most comfortable
Licensed taxis operate from a dedicated rank just outside the arrivals hall. Flat rate to any Jerusalem address: 300–380 NIS (approximately $80–105 USD). The rate is fixed by the Transportation Ministry; insist on the meter or confirm the flat rate before getting in. Journey time: 40–55 minutes depending on traffic. This is the correct choice for Motzei Shabbos or when you land at 2 a.m. with four exhausted children.
Pre-booked private transfers (arranged through your hotel or a Jerusalem transport company) add 50–100 NIS but mean a driver is holding a sign for you — worth it if you have significant luggage or are meeting elderly family members.
Train — cheapest, but not door-to-door
Israel Railways runs a direct line from Ben Gurion to Jerusalem Yitzhak Navon (the central underground station). Cost: approximately 30 NIS per person. Journey: 22 minutes. The train is clean, comfortable, and runs frequently — but Yitzhak Navon station is not your hotel. From Navon you need a taxi (30–50 NIS) or light rail to reach Geulah, Romema, or the city center, adding time and a vehicle change with luggage.
The math: two adults by train (60 NIS) + taxi from Navon (40 NIS) = 100 NIS. Nesher per person (80 NIS x2) = 160 NIS. For one or two travelers, the train saves money. For a family of four with stroller and luggage, the Nesher is significantly simpler. The train does not run on Shabbos.
Rental car — generally not recommended for Jerusalem
Driving in Jerusalem is genuinely difficult — narrow streets, aggressive local drivers, limited parking, and the impossibility of driving on Shabbos. Unless you're spending most of your trip outside Jerusalem (Dead Sea, Tzfat, Galil), skip the rental car. For day trips, private tour drivers or organized transport are far more practical.
SIM cards & connectivity.
Israeli cellular infrastructure is excellent. Coverage in Jerusalem, Tel Aviv, and tourist sites is strong on all major carriers. The three main providers — Cellcom, HOT Mobile, and Partner (formerly Orange) — all have staffed kiosks in the Terminal 3 arrivals hall, open from early morning through late night.
Tourist SIM cards: a 30-day unlimited data plan (5G/4G) with unlimited calls within Israel costs 60–90 NIS. HOT Mobile's tourist SIM includes international minutes; Cellcom and Partner offer add-ons. Bring your unlocked phone and buy at the airport — you'll be connected by the time you reach baggage claim.
eSIM option: both Cellcom and Partner sell eSIM plans online before departure. If your phone supports eSIM, activating one before landing means you land with a working Israeli number — useful for booking the Nesher sherut or calling your hotel en route.
Power adapters: Israel uses Type H plugs — a unique three-prong design (three round prongs arranged in a Y-shape) used nowhere else in the world. Your US or European plugs will not fit without an adapter. Buy a Type H adapter before you travel, or purchase one at any Ben Gurion airport shop for 30–50 NIS. Voltage is 220V / 50Hz — most modern electronics (phones, laptops, shavers) auto-switch and need only a plug adapter, not a voltage converter. Check your device's label; if it says "100–240V input," you're fine.
Israeli hotels use standard Type H outlets in rooms. Many higher-end hotels in Geulah and Romema add Type C (European) and USB charging ports as well. If you're bringing a CPAP or medical device that is not dual-voltage, bring a proper converter — 220V into a 110V-only device will destroy it immediately.
Currency & money.
The currency is the New Israeli Shekel (NIS, symbol: ₪). As of May 2026, the approximate exchange rate is 1 USD ≈ 3.65–3.75 NIS (check a live rate the day you travel; the shekel fluctuates). 100 NIS is roughly $27.
ATMs: Bank Leumi, Bank Hapoalim, and Discount Bank ATMs are everywhere in Jerusalem — including inside and near Ben Gurion. They dispense NIS directly and typically offer better rates than airport currency exchange booths. Your home bank's foreign transaction fee (usually 1–3%) applies; some US accounts (Charles Schwab, Fidelity) refund international ATM fees entirely.
Credit cards: widely accepted throughout Jerusalem — restaurants, hotels, shops, supermarkets. Visa and Mastercard are universal; American Express works at major hotels and chains but not at smaller frum groceries. In Mea Shearim and some chareidi markets, cash is preferred or required. Carry 200–300 NIS cash at all times; you'll use it for the sherut, tips, and the odd shuk purchase.
Tipping: service industry tipping is expected. At restaurants, 10–15% is standard; 15% in higher-end establishments. Hotel porters: 10–15 NIS per bag. Taxi drivers do not expect tips but will appreciate rounding up. Tour guides: 50–100 NIS per person per day for a private guide, less for group tours. Never tip at a bakery or grocery checkout.
Avoid airport currency exchange windows — their rates are 5–8% worse than an ATM. If you need NIS immediately on landing, use the airport ATM (past customs on your left) rather than the exchange booths near arrivals.
First day checklist — frum priorities.
This is what a frum family should verify or locate within the first two hours of check-in. Do not assume the hotel has arranged these things unless you booked through JRM Hotels with a Shabbos brief.
- Kashrus certificate. Ask the front desk to show you the teudat kashrut. It should be framed and displayed, issued within the current year, with the supervising body's seal. Confirm which hashgacha supervises the kitchen specifically — not just the building. If you keep Badatz Eida or Badatz Beit Yosef, confirm the kitchen matches.
- Shabbos elevator schedule. Get the floor-by-floor stop times in writing, or photograph the posted schedule. Know which elevator is Shabbos-mode and at what time it switches. If you're arriving on Friday, this is urgent — ask immediately.
- Shul times and location. Ask the concierge specifically for your nusach (Ashkenaz, Sefard, Sephardic, Edot HaMizrach). In Geulah and Romema, minyanim are everywhere; the hotel may have a minyan schedule posted. For Carlebach or specific chassidus davening, ask for addresses.
- Eruv status. If Shabbos is within 48 hours, confirm the current eruv status. Ask the front desk; check the Rabbanut Yerushalayim website; or ask in the hotel lobby. A family with a stroller absolutely needs this confirmed before Shabbos.
- Mikveh location. The hotel concierge should know the nearest women's mikveh. In Geulah, there are several within 5–10 minutes' walk. Appointments or call-ahead are often required; get the phone number on arrival, not erev Shabbos.
- Nearest kosher grocery. Even with a full hotel breakfast, you'll want a local makolet (corner grocery) for snacks, water, and Shabbos extras. In Geulah: Mea Shearim market is a 10-minute walk; multiple Osher Ad and Machsanei HaShuk branches are nearby.
- Candle-lighting time. Confirm the local candle-lighting time for that Shabbos — it varies week to week. Your zmanim app (Chabad.org, MyZmanim, or Sefaria) with your hotel's address is the most accurate. Jerusalem's zmanim differ from New York or London by hours.
Language.
Hebrew is the primary language of daily life. All signage, menus, and government services are in Hebrew; most have English as a second language. In Jerusalem hotels catering to international guests, front desk staff speak English fluently. Restaurant menus in frum areas typically have English translations.
English is widely understood in Jerusalem's hotel corridor, the Old City tourist area, and anywhere near major attractions. You will not struggle in a modern hotel, a mainstream kosher restaurant, or at Ben Gurion Airport. Younger Israelis almost universally speak at least basic English.
Yiddish is spoken — sometimes exclusively — in Mea Shearim, parts of Geulah, and the more insular chareidi neighborhoods. Storekeepers in the Mea Shearim market will often address you in Yiddish first, then switch to Hebrew, then English. Basic Yiddish phrases will be warmly received. In Romema and central Geulah, Hebrew dominates even among chareidi residents.
Taxi apps — set up Gett before you land.
Gett is the dominant ride-hailing app in Israel. Download it before departure, create an account, and add a payment method — then you can book a taxi anywhere in Jerusalem from your phone in 30 seconds. Gett uses licensed Israeli taxi drivers (not rideshare), charges metered rates, and is available 24 hours. In Geulah and Romema, Gett pickups are typically 3–5 minutes away at any hour.
Uber operates in Israel but only in Tel Aviv and central areas — it's not reliable in Jerusalem. Yango (formerly Yandex Taxi) is available in Jerusalem and is a reasonable backup if Gett is busy, but Gett should be your primary app.
Street hailing works anywhere in Jerusalem — flag any white taxi with an illuminated sign. Confirm the driver will use the meter before entering (say "mishmân, bevakasha" — "meter, please"), or agree a price in advance. Taxis are metered by law; a driver refusing the meter is a yellow flag.
Jerusalem light rail.
Jerusalem's light rail system (Rakevet Kala) has expanded significantly in recent years. The original Red Line runs from Hadassah Ein Kerem through the city center, Jaffa Road, the Central Bus Station, and out to Pisgat Ze'ev. A newer Blue Line adds north–south coverage. For frum travelers, useful stops include Shuk Mahane Yehuda (for the market), Shaarei Zedek (hospital area), Central Station / Binyanei HaUma, and City Hall / Kikkar Safra for central Jerusalem access.
Rav Kav card: purchase a Rav Kav smart card at any light rail station from the automated machines (instructions in English). Load it with credit; a single ride is approximately 5.90 NIS. The same card works on Egged buses throughout Jerusalem and on the train. Keep the physical card — you can reload it repeatedly. Single-ride paper tickets are available but slightly more expensive.
The light rail does not run on Shabbos. Friday service ends before candle-lighting; Saturday night service resumes after Shabbos ends. For Shabbos travel, plan on walking (if you're within the eruv and near shul) or arranging transportation in advance. The light rail is primarily useful for weekday errands, Machane Yehuda market visits, and exploring the city during chol.
Safety.
Jerusalem is a safe city for tourists and residents. The frum neighborhoods — Geulah, Mea Shearim, Romema, Bayit Vegan, Har Nof — are among the safest urban areas in Israel; community density, constant foot traffic at all hours, and active local watchfulness make them very low-crime environments. Families walk to and from shul at midnight on Motzei Shabbos without concern.
Home Front Command app (Pikud HaOref): download this free app before you land. It provides real-time rocket alert notifications by location — you'll hear a siren and the app gives you the same information simultaneously. When an alert sounds, enter the nearest miklat (shelter) or stairwell; hotels post shelter locations. In practice, most visits pass without any alerts, but the app is standard practice for residents and should be for visitors too.
US Embassy in Jerusalem: 14 David Flusser Street, Arnona, Jerusalem. Emergency line: +972-2-630-4000 (24 hours). Register your trip at travel.state.gov (STEP program) so the Embassy can reach you if there's a regional emergency.
Standard urban caution applies: don't leave valuables visible in rental cars, hold your bag in crowded markets, and keep photocopies of your passport separate from the original. Beyond that, Jerusalem does not require the heightened vigilance you'd apply in many major world cities.